Now that you’ve seen howworks, you’ll want to know which is the best reverse osmosis system will help you protect your family’s water supply, give you better-tasting water, and, of course, save you money. Here’s a list of the top ten reverse osmosis system reviews, which we’ve carefully reviewed, compared and rated to help you decide.
- Specifics to Consider Before Buying Your Reverse Osmosis System
- Top 10 Best Reverse Osmosis System Reviews
- 1. APEC RO-90 Water High-Flow 90 GPD Drinking Water Filter System
- 2. Home Master TMAFC Artesian Full Contact System
- 3. APEC ROES-PH75 Top Tier Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water System
- 4. iSpring RCC7AK 6 Stages 75GPD Under Sink Water Filter System
- 5. APEC Water RO-CTOP Countertop Reverse Osmosis Water Filter System
- 6. iSpring RCC7 Reverse Osmosis 5-Stage 75GPD Under-Sink Water Filter System
- 7. Watts WP5-50 Premier Five-Stage Manifold Reverse Osmosis Water Treatment System
- 8. APEC ROES-50 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Filter System
- 9. Express Water 5 Stage Home Drinking Reverse Osmosis System
- 10. New Wave Enviro 10 Stage Water Filter System
- Conclusion – Overall best and best for you
Specifics to Consider Before Buying Your Reverse Osmosis System
When shopping for an RO system, you’ll need to think about several factors. Not all machines are created equal, and you’ll need to look into what kind of water supply you have coming into your home. For this, you’ll need to test and measure your water supply, including its qualities, and its delivery mechanism.
Specifically, we’ll help guide you based on the following criteria.
How big is an RO unit?
Generally, most systems require a cavity space of anywhere between 12” x 12” x 15” and 17” x 17” x 15”, although there is a lot of variance in shape and size between brands and models. Your system will be easily installed in your kitchen cabinet.
What is my water supply like?
This is a large thing to bear in mind, and you should not ignore the quality of your existing water supply. You’ll need to check it for:
Did you know that metals can be corroded by liquids with a low pH? Generally, the average pH that comes from our faucets runs between 6.9 and 7.5. On the pH scale, 7 is right in the middle between acids and bases/alkalis. However, a mere tenth of a pH point’s difference between two supplies of water means that one is ten times more acidic, therefore potentially corrosive, than the other.
This is probably foremost in your mind. Water purity is measured in units of TDS (Total Dissolved Solids). For drinking, water should have a TDS of below 500. Just to give you an idea, water from wells runs between 1000 and 5000; seawater clocks in at about 40,000.
Different parts of the country will almost certainly experience different water pressures in supply. If your water is coming out weakly (at a force of less than 50 psi/pounds per square inch), if it’s very cold (especially likely in many northern states), or if the contaminant level is high (1000+ TDS, especially likely if you use a well), then you will need to invest in a booster pump. Note – some more high-end models include such a pump. The pump will increase the force of the water, breaking the force that binds the molecules of the dissolved solids or ions to the existing water supply.
What sort of components should my system have?
1. Which Membrane?
You need to check that your supply has been chlorinated. If your area doesn’t use chlorine in the water it supplies to your house, you’ll need to invest in a TFC membrane. This will keep bacteria out (yes, the kind that can make you sick!) and your water safe, but you’ll need to replace it about every two years. This all depends on the nature of your water supply as well as how much you use. If your supply has been chlorinated, look at getting a CTA membrane that isn’t sensitive to chlorine. You can use more than one membrane.
2. Which Filters?
You can also use more than one filter. Pre-filters take out sediments (such as silt or dirt), while carbon filters do the job on the chlorine that would otherwise damage the osmosis membrane in the RO unit.
3. What is meant by the Phases or Stages of Reverse Osmosis?
These are the phases or stages through which water enters the filtration process, going from Phase 1 (where a filter removes large particles like silt and dust), through Phase 2 (where we say goodbye to chlorine, bad water tastes, etc.), all the way through Phase 4 (the main feature in RO water system, where water loses 95% or more of its impurities), all the way up to Phase 7, where a UV filter exterminates any bacteria or viruses in the water.
4. What’s a good balance between cost and value for me?
Of course, you already value the safety of your water supply, otherwise you wouldn’t have read this far. However, if you live on your own and don’t use a great deal of water, you should check out the options we’ve selected with you in mind. GPD (gallons per day) is a measurement you’ll want to watch. Larger households will need to keep an eye on it, too.
Read more below!
Top 10 Best Reverse Osmosis System Reviews
Conclusion – Overall best and best for you
Home Master’s TMAFC is our favorite here. Ticking all the boxes and delivering exceptionally great-tasting, clean water, it is top of the line and deservedly so. For only one water filter change a year (or after 2000 gallons), you’ve got the best of all worlds happening in your water supply, so much so that you’ll never look at bottled water of any kind again. We’d call it the Ferrari of home RO systems.
However, in terms of best value, APEC’s ROES 50 will strike the best balance between being a luxury item and doing a great, reliable job at a far more affordable rate. It’s a bestseller for a good reason. If x number of consumers are that happy with it (and they certainly appear to be), you will be, too, for years and years.